It was hard to decide to leave Moorea but in these days we would love to spend a month on every corner we visit. On the other side we are always happy to see something else...so we just flow with the 14 knots wind that pushes Lazy Jack along the 90Nm to Huahine. “The Woman Island”, titled like this because arriving there on the early ages someone swore he saw some woman open leg's shape in the mountains. I don't know what to say about this impression, but definitely I don't have the same whiskey on board. This island is practically unknown to tourists, there are only few family accommodations and for some reasons it's really hard for them to have a regular people flow like the other islands. The result is obviously amazing desert turquoise water, excellent snorkeling, perfect anchorage for LJ and beautiful landscape to explore by kayak or MTB around the island. Only sail boats often stop here for mainly two reasons: firstly that's the only stop between Moorea and Raiatea, secondly, and I swear I'm telling you with very low voice tone... the waves!!!!
Huahine has some of the best waves in Polynesia, someone also told me about angry locals and unfriendly vibrations in the water. As usual I prefer to report what my experience teaches me, and I can definitely tell you about the beautiful time spent in Huahine's water, surfing amazing and nearly mechanic waves on a razor sharp coral reef. The water so blue to make you think the fins of the board will not pass through while the little lips covering you are trying to push your mind to remember that moment for the rest of your life. The five or six locals surfing with us were practically exciting us to take off as many waves as we wanted to, giving us some tips and pushing on Alice's fear of the reef, singing and helping her to find the good feeling and finally get her wave! We had the smile on us all day long, even when I saw her standing on 15 cm deep reef after a wipe out with a overhead set coming straight on her ;-(
When she managed to take herself out of that nasty situation she only told me; “I tried to dive but I touched the bottom and I understood I was fucked!!”
You are always my hero my darling!!! Diving 15 cm was a hard decision!!!!
A bit more of navigation with the trade winds that are still caressing us and we are already exploring Raiatea. We actually started from the biggest bay on the eastern point, where the only navigable (by canoe or dinghy) river of all French Polynesia meets the Pacific Ocean. Even after years of traveling, I'm still surprised of the nature of this place. Fruits are everywhere, flowers are incredible and still untouched by the crowd. Vanilla plantations and nice people are the non plus ultra of this magical part of the world. Alice was almost kidnapped by a Polynesian bull, who turns out to be the pirogue champion of Raiatea!!! He's only 21 and teaches at school the national sport of Polynesia. Big surprise, he lets us all try his flashing new pirogue and that's how we discovered Alice's next sport!! Pretty difficult at the beginning, you can very easily flip upside down and find yourself in the water without knowing how! We say goodbye to the champion and his island and set the Volvo Breeze to the very close tiny Tahaa. The captain heard about a wonderful mooring right in front of an exclusive resort: Le Tahaa, that makes part of the Relais et Chateaux resorts. We can simply say “WOW”: the dream is real. A private island covered by a flourishing vegetation, gorgeous little bungalows on a crystal clear water, white sand beaches and one of the most exciting snorkeling so far. A coral garden in a shallow transparent water and all kinds of little, colored, cute fish that seem curious and at the same time totally conscious that nobody will hurt them. We are thinking of leaving a copy of our resume... Who knows!!!
Smooth and relaxed we set the sails and go for the only 20nm from Tahaa to Bora Bora. The most worldwide known island of the french Polynesia. Here tourism is a present in a box where everybody already looked inside once in life. Hotel rooms built on top of the blue water with exterior spa on private terraces overlooking the emerald mountain right past the lagoon. Restaurants with good food and buoys right in front for the yacht to attach without even dropping the anchor. The only hard thing for us is the weather!!! Since our super nice friends Shishi and Furu joined us in Papeete, rain is unfortunately pouring very often. You know, after all we have seen till now, we can't really complain, however these places change so much with a little sun ray that everybody gets really exited when we have the chance to take a good picture or walk somewhere. The only good thing of this weather: off shore wind and correct swell on the pass. Obviously I couldn't lose the chance to surf the Bora Bora pass, even if nobody was there and is not marked that it's surf-able. Anyway, to make the long story short, my friend Mike R. and I tried to enjoy as much as we could the scary lefty!!! Result was not bad, so I guess if someone wants to try that, just make sure to avoid the coral head right where the wave becomes hollow and starts to barrel, and you'll have a very decent ride!!! Otherwise you can also decide to rent a bike and do the island tour, 32km of fun!! Not like riding waves but at least you'll see that Bora Bora is not made only of luxury resorts and honeymooners hotels. The locals are friendly, traditional dances are still alive and the vegetation makes your eyes confused about what direction they have to look. But be careful to look to much here and there, it could happen to step in one of the thousand coconut crab that are always sneaking everywhere, some of them are real monsters of 5kg and I'm not joking: a 5kg crab is a bloody monster!!!!
If you hear about someone in Bora Bora looking for a catamaran that broke three buoys in three days, please don't think we are criminals. Just to let you know, we heard a story about three guys that were on the internet at the Maikai restaurant when a dive instructor asked whether the boat that was flowing with the wind half meter from the other boats was ours. Fortunately these lucky fellows could jump on their dinghy and arrive at the boat and pull back ten meters before the reef could crash his port side. So they decided to go on the other side of the bay, theoretically more protected, and take an other buoy, but in the middle of the night TRAK again: the buoy's rope explodes and that catamaran started to move around again with no control. The most fantastic thing was that trying to take the next buoy, the 35knots wind pushed the boat too close and the propeller melted with the rope, so for a few minutes they where receiving 35kts and the only thing holding the cat was the actual propeller attached to the rope. Luckily, someone told us, that there was a team of German guys and a kind of Italian surfer (still don't know if an Italian can be a surfer, but this is the story we heard) ready to help the cat's captain. This Italian boy in the middle of the night had to dive, with 35kts wind and his screaming girlfriend, who was scared to see him crunched like a hamburger while he was trying to cut the rope from the propeller. Apparently the hero made it, handling the situation and also returning to his beautiful woman on his legs!!!!